Puget Sound AVA Visionary Vineyard & Winery
By JEFF “WICK” WICKLUND
When you think about venturing to wine country, your first thought might be the anticipation of savoring the magical elixir of fermented grapes or, it could be the allure of the vineyards. The beautiful symmetry of trellised vines rolling over fog-laden hills can be an equally intoxicating sensory experience.
It’s hard to imagine Alexander Payne’s iconic, comedic, film noir about two middle-aged college roommates going ‘Sideways’ about wine (among other vices) without the backdrop of the stunning Santa Ynez Valley vineyards.
Washington State has equally amazing vineyards. The vast majority are located on the eastern side of the state. There are currently 20 AVA’s (American Viticultural Areas) in Washington with the Columbia Valley AVA being by far the largest, encompassing over 11 million acres with an excess of 50 thousand acres planted, reflecting 99% of all of the vineyards in the state.
Western Washington is home to more than 300 wineries and tasting rooms that dot the landscape from the U.S.- Canadian border to Vancouver, WA including some of the Islands of the Salish Sea yet, it is home for only about 1% of the vineyard land that provides the raw material for the end product. An old friend of mine, Mark McNeilly (Owner/ Winemaker of Mark Ryan Winery) perfectly summed up the dichotomy of
Washington’s wine industry with one of his first wine labels he produced – “Long Haul” (emphasizing the trek of grapes from the east to the west) which is a harmonious, Merlot-driven blend with fruit sourced mainly from the iconic vineyards of Ciel du Cheval and Klipsun, within the Red Mountain AVA.
This “Farmers Market” approach to the Washington wine industry isn’t anything new as Associated Vintners (Columbia Winery) and American Wine Growers (Chateau Ste. Michelle) both built production facilities in Woodinville, WA in the late ‘70s and early ‘80s to capitalize on the proximity to major urban areas of the state.
What is new however, is the idea, vision and execution of world-class, Burgundian-inspired Western Washington Pinot Noir vineyards that could rival our neighbors to the south in Willamette Valley.
There are a couple of viticultural visionaries who have created a mini wine Mecca in an area of Western Washington that, on the surface, might seem out of place or at least, unlikely.
Kim & Larry Harris of Bayernmoor Cellars have built a stunning boutique winery and estate Vineyard in the rolling hills east of Stanwood. Situated on what was once a dairy farm, the 100+ acre property currently has six acres of vines planted exclusively to Pinot Noir with the early-ripening Précoce variety comprising the majority and Dijon Clone 777 making up the balance.
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We weigh each viticultural decision to improve quality against its impact on the surrounding environment by implementing organic and other mindful farming practices. We are in this for the long haul so we will continue to act in a way that makes the vineyard and surrounding land generationally sustainable, Larry said on a stroll through the vineyard while joyously sipping the glorious results of his efforts.
Plans are in the works for a major expansion of the vineyards at Bayernmoor and Larry has acquired a barrel room and case storage facility to efficiently accommodate that expansion and provide an ideal venue for barrel sampling and implementing the art of blending. When the offer was made to join Larry and his team for some “barrel thievery,” I would be remiss not to eagerly accept. Like kids in a candy store, the sensory evaluation of what the vineyard provided.
Larry’s deft touch with his barrel selection was nothing short of magical!
“Our goal here at Bayernmoor is to create the best possible wines while honoring and respecting the land.”
For decades I’ve chased this ethereal “wine dragon” at vineyards and wineries all over the planet and I have to say that Bayernmoor Cellars, with their estate Vineyard located right in our backyard, is one of the most exciting for what they’re accomplishing now and what impact they will have on the entire Puget Sound AVA.
Bayernmoor’s beautiful tasting room is located in Woodin Creek Village if you’d like to visit, sample Larry’s amazing wines and have a delicious, chef-inspired food pairing.
