Connected by the Salish Sea
Canoe Journey connects tribes from across the region
BY MICHEAL RIOS
Photos by Michael Rios
Since 1989’s iconic Paddle to Seattle, a remarkable cultural revival has been taking place across the Pacific Northwest, known to the tribes therein as Coast Salish territory. Sovereign tribal nations from Alaska to Oregon have united nearly every summer since ’89 to travel the sacred waters in honor and celebration of our common canoe culture.
The annual summertime event, dubbed Canoe Journey, has a deep cultural and spiritual significance not just to the Tulalip Tribes but all tribal communities connected by the Salish Sea.
A tradition passed down from the ancestors, Canoe Journeys have been practiced for millennia.
Traditionally, dugout canoes were the primary means of transportation, allowing our ancestors to navigate the intricate network of waterways that traversed their territories. These Journeys were not only practical but also ceremonial, carrying spiritual significance that symbolized the connection between people, water, and land.
However, the tradition began to wane before ending abruptly due to the impacts of colonization, forced assimilation policies, and the displacement of one tribe after another from their ancestral homelands. Yet, in the latter half of the 20th century, a revitalization movement breathed new life into the practice, and now, in the 21st century, Canoe Journeys are experiencing a resurgence like never before.
“Canoe Journey is such an important event for our people. What it does is bring back the culture to our people. We gather, we sing and dance, we share meals, and we strengthen our connection to one another as tribes of the Salish Sea. It’s so important for our people to bring back the culture that was lost for many generations,” explained Tulalip Chairwoman Teri Gobin.
The revival has been spearheaded by Native American leaders, cultural activists, and elders who recognize the importance of preserving their heritage and passing it on to future generations. Through storytelling, intergenerational knowledge sharing, and the relearning of traditional canoe-building techniques, our sovereign nations are actively reclaiming their cultural identity with each paddle stroke.
“Canoe Journey, to me, is the epitome of being a tribe,” said Monie Ordonia, Tulalip elder and Journeys veteran. “As we journey to our destination, there are several stops along the way. At each stop we come together at designated campsites. We’re all there together. The younger kids are running around, making friends and having fun. The older kids are taking in all the experience from becoming a puller and getting opportunities to sit with their elders and hear their stories.
“The adults become that traditional teacher again,” she continued. “Whether it’s sharing songs and dance, or some kind of regalia making technique, or even just accepting the role of watching other people’s young ones and making sure they stay safe. This is the closest thing to experiencing the real village environment that our ancestors thrived in.”
Central to the significance of Journeys is the sense of community they create. 2023’s Paddle to Muckleshoot had nearly 100 canoe families, each representing different tribes, clans and community groups, embark on a Salish Sea expedition that stretched for weeks. As these proud culture bearers navigated their ancestral waterways, they were greeted by host tribal communities that welcomed them with open arms, sharing food, songs, and dances. This exchange reinforced the ties that bind our Coast Salish people.
“When I was six months pregnant with my son Klayton, I was on the water pulling canoe, so he has not known a day without the canoes…until Covid,” shared Tulalip citizen Theresa Sheldon.
“My son has grown up with Canoe Journey every summer since before he was born. It’s something I like to think he inherited from his grandmother and my mom, Toni Sheldon, who was the only woman to pull for Tulalip in 1989’s Paddle to Seattle. All four of her daughters pull canoe, and now her grandchildren are pulling, too. We are living who we truly are as canoe people.”
In recent years, local and regional media outlets have made it a priority to spotlight the annual summertime tradition. Both tribal and non-tribal Washingtonians marvel at the beauty of the traditional cedar canoes as they navigate the Salish Sea; whether it be paying special attention to its local news coverage, following along on social media, or being present on tribal shores to witness the canoes arrive.
The revitalization of the Tribal Canoe Journeys has also highlighted the importance of environmental stewardship. As participants paddle through pristine waters and encounter the impact of climate change, the connection between the land and its people becomes even more evident. The tribes have been at the forefront of advocating for the protection of their waterways, embracing sustainable practices, and raising awareness about environmental issues within their communities and beyond.
“Our ancestors were the original stewards of this land. As the people of the Salish Sea, we must protect the water, the land, and our animal relatives because we understand that we are all connected,” described Chairwoman Gobin.
“Canoe Journey reinforces our connection with our life-giving waterways and our codependent relationship with the orca and the salmon and the Salish Sea that we all call home.”
Clearly, the impact of Canoe Journey extends far beyond the participating tribes. Non-Indigenous communities are invited not just to witness the significance of Journeys, but to contribute to various cultural exchange activities as well. This cross-cultural understanding helps dispel misconceptions and raise appreciation for our Coast Salish traditions and histories.
As the sun set on Canoe Journey 2023, honoring our warriors past and present, the participants returned home with hearts full of memories, renewed connections, and a strengthened sense of cultural pride. The revival of this sacred tradition has proven to be a powerful force in preserving tribal identities, encouraging healing, promoting environmental stewardship, and creating lasting connections among communities.
“For us in Tulalip, I’m sure last year’s Paddle to Muckleshoot had a record of youth pullers and parent/child combinations,” reflected thrilled elder Monie. “Does this youth movement excite me? Hell to the yeah! For me, I’m on the verge of retiring and hanging up my paddle, so to witness the youth be so excited to learn and pull for the first time brings me so much hope. I know the next generation is eager to carry on our canoe teachings and keep this part of our culture alive.”
For three and a half decades, coastal families have navigated the sacred waters of the Salish Sea every summer in a marvelous resurgence of canoe culture fueled by vibrant tradition. Each Journey’s final destination changes annually, as tribes take turns hosting the much anticipated, week-long celebration potlatch that honors participants, witnesses, community leaders, elders, and, most of all, the power of enduring ancestral knowledge.